Residential Epoxy Flooring in Abeokuta & Nigeria

Finishes available for homes

• Solid colour gloss — clean, modern and the most affordable option
• Metallic epoxy — pigments moved through the resin to create a marble or cloud-like depth, no two floors identical
• Flake or chip systems — vinyl flakes broadcast into the coat for a speckled, hard-wearing terrazzo look, popular in garages
• Clear coat over existing tiles or screed where the substrate is sound and you want to keep it
• Anti-slip for bathrooms, terraces and pool surrounds

How we work in an occupied home

Working in a family home is not the same as working in an empty warehouse, and we plan around that. Rooms are done in sequence rather than all at once where possible, furniture is moved and sheeted by us, and doorways are screened to keep grinding dust out of the rest of the house.

• Site visit and moisture check on the existing screed or slab
• Furniture removal, sheeting and dust screening at doorways
• Diamond grinding with dust-extracted machines to keep the house liveable
• Crack and hollow-tile repair, then priming
• Base coat, decorative layer if any, then two clear protective top coats
• Skirting, thresholds and edge detail reinstated

Suitability for the Nigerian climate

Heat and humidity are the two things people ask about most. Cured epoxy is unaffected by ambient Nigerian temperatures — it is used in un-air-conditioned warehouses and hangars nationwide. What matters is moisture coming up through the slab, which is a real risk in ground floor rooms built without a damp-proof membrane.

That is why we test the slab before quoting. Where we find rising damp, we install a moisture-tolerant primer or a damp-proof epoxy membrane first. Applying a decorative floor over a wet slab without that step is how floors blister, and it is not a risk worth taking to save a day of work.

Direct, prolonged sunlight will gradually yellow a standard clear epoxy, so for terraces, balconies and rooms with very large unshaded windows we finish with a UV-stable polyurethane top coat instead.

How thick a home floor needs to be

Domestic floors carry the lightest loads of anything we install, so thickness here is driven by the look you want rather than by traffic. A metallic effect needs depth for the pigment to move through; a plain colour does not.

• Solid colour gloss, 300 to 500 microns — roller-applied over a sound, flat screed. The most affordable finish and entirely adequate for bedrooms, living rooms and staircases.
• Metallic and marble effect, 1 to 2mm — the pigment needs a body of resin to move through, and a thin film will not produce the depth people are buying.
• Flake and chip systems, 2 to 3mm — flakes are broadcast into a base coat, the excess is scraped back, and the surface is sealed under clear coats. Popular in garages and car ports because the texture hides tyre marks.
• Clear coat over sound existing tiles — no build layer at all, just grinding, grout filling and a sealed clear finish where you want to keep what is there.

Working with the Nigerian heat during the pour

The heat that makes a home comfortable to work in is the enemy of a decorative floor. Epoxy pot life shortens sharply as temperature rises — roughly halving for every 10°C above the 20 to 25°C a datasheet assumes — so a metallic base mixed at two in the afternoon in a closed-up Abeokuta room can begin to thicken while it is still being spread. Once it thickens the pigment stops moving, and a metallic floor whose pigment has stopped moving shows trowel and roller lines that cannot be corrected afterwards.

So we pour decorative coats early in the morning, in smaller batches than the datasheet allows, with the room cross-ventilated and the crew sized so a batch is always down before it goes off. Where a house has air conditioning we ask for it to be run before the pour and switched off during it — a cooler room helps, but moving air across wet resin leaves ripples in the surface.

Return to service, at typical Abeokuta ambient: light foot traffic after about 24 hours, furniture back after three days, rugs and mats after seven. That last one catches people out — covering a floor that is firm but not fully cured can leave a permanent outline of the rug in the finish.

During the rains, a cool ground-floor slab and humid air can leave amine blush on a curing coat: a hazy, slightly greasy film that the next clear coat will not bond to. It is easy to miss on a decorative floor because the haze reads as part of the effect. We wash and abrade any blushed coat before applying the next.

How home floors fail, and how we avoid it

• Blistering in a ground-floor room — moisture rising through a slab built without a damp-proof membrane, which is common in older Nigerian homes. Avoided by moisture-testing at the site visit and installing a damp-tolerant primer or epoxy membrane before anything decorative goes down.
• The new floor lifting where old tiles were coated over — one drummy tile takes the epoxy above it with it. Avoided by sounding every tile at survey and being straight with you when removal is the right answer.
• Ambering on a terrace or heavily glazed room — standard clear epoxy yellows under prolonged direct sun. Avoided by finishing those areas with a UV-stable polyurethane top coat instead.
• Trowel and roller lines in a metallic floor — the visible signature of a batch mixed too large for the room temperature, or a pour started too late in the day.
• A permanent rug or furniture outline in the finish — caused by covering the floor before it reaches full hardness at seven days.
• Scratching around dining chairs and appliances — a gloss finish behaves like one. Felt pads, and lifting rather than dragging, deal with it.

Cost factors and timeline

Residential work is priced per square metre in Naira and is driven mainly by finish and preparation rather than by area. A solid colour in an empty new-build room sits at the low end; a metallic finish in an occupied house with hollow tiles to break out and a damp slab to seal sits at the top, and the gap between them is wide. Small rooms carry a higher rate per square metre than large open-plan areas because grinding set-up, dust screening and mobilisation cost the same either way — which is also why we start at around 20 square metres.

The specific things that move a domestic quote: whether the finish is decorative or solid, whether an existing covering has to come out, whether the slab needs a damp-proof membrane, whether the room needs a UV-stable top coat for sunlight, and how much furniture we are moving and sheeting for you. We give you the figure after the site visit rather than over the phone, because the slab is the part nobody can assess from a description.

A single room typically takes three to four days from start to walkable, and a full ground floor around a week. We give you a fixed date range in the quote after the site visit.

Looking after your floor

• Sweep or vacuum, then damp mop with a mild detergent — no bleach or ammonia
• Put felt pads under furniture legs; the finish scratches like any gloss surface
• Wipe spills reasonably promptly, though the floor will not stain the way grout does
• Avoid dragging heavy appliances across the surface
• A fresh clear top coat every 8 to 10 years restores the original gloss